THREE NIGHTS IN SAPA, NORTHERN VIETNAM

We have recently just come back from a 7-month long backpacking trip and included in our travels was 5 weeks discovering the magic of Vietnam. Sitting firmly at the top of our bucket list for a good while now, we were so excited to finally see what all the fuss was about. We figured heading straight to Sapa, with its misty mountains and highland culture was a great place to start. Six hours north of Hanoi, sitting just below China, Sapa has become famous with travelers due to the breathtaking landscape and for the chance to get fully immersed into the local culture. We spent 3 nights there in mid-February to explore what the region had to offer. Right off the bat we will say that there is many mixed reviews for Sapa. Some people absolutely adore their trip there, others couldn’t wait to leave. As usual, we sit somewhere in-between. The town itself in our opinion was not our favourite place to stay, but we believe the magic is found when you choose to stay in a homestay in one of the local villages. Our experience was completely enhanced once we got out of the town and stayed with a local family. We’re sharing our experience here to help you make the most of your time in Sapa and so you know what to expect from the region.

trekking in the rice fields of sapa, vietnam

JOURNEY TO THE CLOUDS

Getting there is absolutely part of the adventure. We started our journey to Sapa like most travelers do, on a 6-hour bus from Hanoi that climbs steadily away from the city towards the picturesque winding valleys and mountains. Of course, if you take the sleeper bus like us, you’ll do all this in the pitch black, but what you’ll lose in views you’ll make up for in rite of passage-like status. It’s a shared experience among backpackers to arrive in Sapa in the early hours of the morning to a misty ghost town and spend some time in the hotel or guesthouse sardine’d on the lobby sofa waiting for daylight. If we could do the trip over, we would definitely have paid for early check-in, but if you’re honoring your backpackers budget, know that most hotels and guesthouses have a space for you to wait and relax before check-in. We opted to stay in Sapa center for one night and we stayed here. After resting for a couple of hours, we decided to try our first Vietnamese coffee of the trip, so we walked through the town up to The Mist, which is a beautifully relaxed spot that opens at 7.30 am, perfect for all the early birds fresh off the bus and it just happens to serve perhaps the best coconut coffee in all of Vietnam. We stayed for a couple of hours, ordered breakfast and made the most of the fire that was lit in the shop. If you think Vietnam is warm year round, think again. It was super chilly when we visited Sapa in mid-Feb and the fire was a welcome reprieve from the cold! Feeling the buzz from the strong Vietnamese coffee we set off on foot to explore the Sapa town, a mix of fog-laced cafes, markets and of course the locals scattered throughout selling their homemade wares. Now, we had heard that there would be locals working hard to make some money but I don’t think we were prepared for quite how relentless their efforts would be. We were followed through the town almost the entire time we were exploring and were not left alone for more than a few minutes. Whilst we were fully aware this is how the locals make a lot of their money, it can be incredibly overwhelming. Our best tip for this is to be polite but firm if you do not wish to purchase anything. Having said that, stopping to chat to the locals and to support them is one of the best ways to learn more about life in the highlands and to show your appreciation for being welcomed warmly into their culture! Though it can be annoying it’s worth remembering that it’s a privilege to be able to travel and explore other cultures. In the afternoon we found our way to Cat Cat Village, a Hmong village nestled in the valley, with waterfalls, bamboo bridges and traditional wooden homes. The walk down into the valley is filled with artisans selling their crafts, jewellery and embroidery, and there’s even a couple of restaurants to try some local food. Cultural performances are held at the village center where we stopped to watch a musical show about life in the village. Cat Cat village is incredibly touristy, though its not quite the ‘bleak disneyland’ some refer to it as. Would we recommend that you must visit during your stay in Sapa? No. Would we still say we enjoyed the scenery and found it interesting? Absolutely! Late afternoon was spent checking in to our room and relaxing in our bath above the clouds, before we spent the evening in a little restaurant enjoying coconut curries and a couple of beers before calling it a night.

TREKKING AND HOMESTAYING IN SAPA, VIETNAM

The next day started with a repeat visit to The Mist to be reunited with the coconut coffee before we spent a little time mooching around the town again. If the weather was on our side we would have taken the cable car up to Fansipan Mountain, however with the thick layer of fog promising to stick around for the entire day, we decided it was probably pointless going. Instead we explored the local market where we checked out the fresh produce and local goods on offer before wandering around the lake in the town. We had heard that the best way to experience Sapa was to do some trekking with a guide and to stay with a local family to get a real glimpse of what daily life is like for those who live in the valleys and villages. So, we made our way to Ta Van village to check in to Sapa Hmong Bungalow Homestay, a calm, peaceful retreat sandwiched between the rice terraces and valleys ran by Asua and his family. From the moment we arrived we were treated like family, with steaming hot mugs of tea waiting for us. We were guided round to our cosy, but surprisingly luxe wooden bungalow to settle in. Inside was a comfy bed, a bathroom with a walk-in hot shower and a fireplace to keep warm in the winter. Each bungalow also features its own terrace overlooking the mountains which is where we spent most of our time. We idled away much of the afternoon getting to know the family, particularly the young children who were excited to show us around their home. We played for hours with the youngest two! In the evening we were invited into the family home for dinner, where Asua’s wife cooked up a feast and we toasted with homemade rice wine. That night we slept like babies. The following day, Asua’s daughter Sa guided us on a hike through all the villages. We travelled through mist covered valleys, past water buffalo ambling in the rice terraces and through dense bamboo forests taking in the views as we went, catching a glimpse of village life. Sa shared stories from her culture as we walked, giving us such a unique understanding of what life is like for her and her community. The terrain was pretty challenging when we visited, especially as we were there in the winter, so we would highly recommend sticking to a guide who will help you navigate the muddy paths. Sa informed us we were visiting at a special time as the following day a festival was being held, whereby all the villages come together to celebrate. We trekked through the festival area and Sa excitedly pointed out all the games that would be played, what food would be eaten and where different celebrations would take place. We deeply regret having to leave the day of the festival as Sa explained foreigners are welcome to join in the celebrations if they wish. If we hadn’t made onward journey plans we would have definitely stuck around! Somewhere along the walk we stopped in one of the villages for a simple lunch of rice, where we got to meet other members of Sa’s community. The trek really was the highlight of our entire journey to Sapa. The sun even came out for long enough to get a glimpse of the mountain views the area is famous for. Whether you trek with a guide or not you will be approached by people trying to sell you something, so make sure you don’t forget to come out with money like we did, and bring enough to support the locals you encounter. That night was yet again spent around the family dinner table before we took our tired trekking legs to bed. The following morning the entire village was buzzing with excitement for the festival. Our host family were busy getting prepared but they made sure to give us a warm send off, dressed in their best festival attire. If you travel to Sapa, a homestay is an absolute must. It’s more than just a place to stay, it’s an invitation to gain a deeper cultural insight into life here and to share meals and stories as you do so. The community here make the most of what they have and are steadfast in honouring their culture and traditions. It was a privilege to be welcomed in with such warmth.

sapa-rice-fields-trekking — Exploring the village

OUR FINAL THOUGHTS ON SAPA

Between the dramatic landscapes and the deeply rooted traditions of its people, Sapa lingers with us still as one of the most memorable places we visited on our trip. It is true that Sapa town itself is incredibly touristy and at times quite overwhelming. We believe you’ll find the magic you came for when you step out of the town and into a homestay. There you’ll find a deeper, more authentic experience.