Beyond Seoul
Seoul is amazing… but there is so much more to see in South Korea! We made sure that we ventured further than the capital on our one month trip around the country to really dig deep into all that South Korea has to offer. When most travelers think of South Korea, they picture the neon glow of Seoul’s skyline, the palaces of the Joseon dynasty, and bustling street markets alive with the scent of tteokbokki and hotteok floating in the air. While the capital is undeniably electric, it’s only one chapter of a much richer story. Step beyond Seoul, and you’ll discover a country of misty mountains, coastal villages, ancient temples, and islands shaped by wind and sea. Here is just 4 in an entire plethora of unforgettable places that showcase the diversity of magic to be found in South Korea.
Exploring hanok villages and old tea houses in Jeonju, South Korea
Tucked between the mountains in the country's south-west, you'll find Jeonju. Here you’ll get a glimpse of South Korea’s past. The air carries the scent of pinewood and of sesame oil seeping out of the restaurants. The heart of the city is Jeonju Hanok Village, a preserved neighbourhood of more than 700 traditional Korean homes. Laundry flutters discreetly in courtyards. Tea is poured. Doors open and close. Life hums softly behind wooden beams that have held their place for generations. Jeonju does not announce itself loudly like Seoul but instead unfolds softly. Here you are invited to slow down and soak up the remnants of its historical past. Down one alley, you’ll find a calligraphy studio where ink pools like midnight on parchment as people decorate paper fans. Around the corner, a grandmother fans skewers of grilled rice cake over glowing coals. Somewhere, a group of friends laugh in rented hanbok, their silk skirts brushing against the stone path as if they’ve stepped out of another era, snapping away photos. At the center of it all stands Gyeonggijeon Shrine, where portraits of Joseon kings are housed in quiet dignity. Step through its gates and the noise of the outside world recedes. Spend some time here exploring the intimate history of the Joseon dynasty or join the free tours with a guide that run daily. Jeonju is also a foodie heaven. This is, after all, the birthplace of bibimbap. The heaped brass bowls of rice topped with marinated vegetables, sticky gochujang, sesame oil, and sometimes raw beef or egg yolk are served up across the city, served almost too beautiful to eat. But Jeonju’s food culture extends far beyond a single dish. In the evenings, fill up humming with the buzz of conversation and clinking cups. Orders don’t arrive as single plates but as generous spreads, pancakes, stews, pickled vegetables, laid out across the table to share. You don’t rush your food here. You linger. You talk. You relax. Even street food feels deliberate. We stop for Dawoorang Homemade Mandu nestled amongst the hanok’s. We opt to try ones bursting with Kimchi, the vibrant red sauce dribbling down our chins. We order hotteok’s from a man who has been serving up the traditional hot pancakes his entire life, the recipe perfected over the years. Whilst Jeonju is famous for its tea houses, and you really should visit them, locals love to hang out at Jeonju Gaekridan-gil (Coffee Street), where you’ll find heaps of cafe’s packed against each other offering another perfect spot to rest and soak up the creative atmosphere. Spend the night in a hanok guesthouse, sleeping on a mattress laid over warm ondol floors. In the early morning, you can slide open the wooden doors and let cool air spill in. Wander toward Jaman Mural Village, where painted walls climb the hillside and offer a view of the hanok rooftops stretched below in a sea of charcoal tiles. No skyscrapers interrupt the skyline. Instead Jeonju seems content to exist peacefully, deeply rooted in its traditional past.
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Sunsets and beach vibes on Jeju Island, South Korea
80km off South Korea's southern coast is the dramatic natural scenery of Jeju Isand. Spend even a weekend here and you’ll understand why Jeju Island is often called the most beautiful place in South Korea, and why so many travelers add it to their South Korea itinerary beyond Seoul. Jeju Island feels like stepping into a different country entirely. A short flight from the mainland transports you to a landscape of volcanic rock and sea spray. The island’s dramatic geography was shaped by ancient eruptions, the most prominent being Hallasan, South Korea’s highest mountain. On clear days, its summit hovers above the island like a quiet guardian. Hiking its trails is one of the best things to do in Jeju Island but for the less adventurous, quiet magic can be found by the beaches. Wander the sandy strips, stopping for a seafood lunch or coffee break as you go. Time slows down here, and it’s best enjoyed at a relaxed pace. Locals agree the island has three things in abundance: wind, stone and women. The most famous women of course are the Haenyeo. These women free divers, some of them 80 years old, harvest all manner of shellfish from the sea. We headed to the cliffs nearby to watch them working in action. When they come back ashore, they sell their goods on the beach. Not unexpectedly, seafood is massive here and people travel just for a taste of the array of seafood on offer. You’d do well to add to the magic by tasting something that has been caught by the Haenyeo, who are trying to preserve a historical practice and follow in the philosophy that you must eat what the island gives you. In Jeju city and Seogwipo (two favourite places to base yourself on the island), you’ll find traditional markets, heaps of cutesy souvenir shops and bustling eateries to check out. Away from the tourist hotspots however, Jeju is a very rural place, farms full of citrus plants and tea fields. Grab a bicycle and ride through the countryside to soak up the landscape that feels as if it has been unchanged for centuries. Many of the farms have opened up restaurants and coffee shops alongside to showcase their produce. Tangerine matcha’s and pour-overs are served up alongside citrus cakes and orange-themed souffle pancakes. Many choose to rent a car on the island. Opt to drive the coastal roads, windows down, and the island reveals itself bit by bit. Stone walls built by hand, wind turbines turning slowly, people selling fresh food from the roadside stalls- a road trip here is perfect. Sunsets are just as epic and they feel as cinematic as the K-dramas that are constantly filmed on the island. Each evening the sky is painted in vibrant pink and purple hues and watching from the shore is the most wonderful way to end a day of exploring. Jeju Island works slowly on your senses: the scent of citrus, the crunch of volcanic stone underfoot, the rhythm of waves against rock. To see Jeju is to see South Korea as its most beautiful.
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If you could skip Seoul entirely, which city would you choose?
Beaches and colour in Busan, South Korea
If Seoul is South Korea’s fast-paced heart, then Busan is its laid-back soul. Nestled between mountains and the sea, Busan blends golden beaches with bustling seafood markets, ancient temples, and colorful traditional villages. Known as South Korea’s second city, skyscrapers still rise, neon lights still flash, but beyond them, always there is water. Waves curl against the shore. Fishing boats sway in the harbor. Gulls circle above the morning markets. Busan doesn’t compete with South Korea’s capital; it exhales in a different rhythm entirely. The air is softer here, salted by the sea. Start your days at the beach, walking the boardwalks with a coffee in hand as you watch the day come alive. By midday you’ll find swimmers in the water, parasols sitting pretty on the beach and street performers serenading nearby. Clinging to the hillside above the port is Gamcheon Culture Village, a sprawl of pastel houses stacked tightly together. Once a hillside settlement, it has become one of Busan’s most loved neighbourhoods. We spend an entire afternoon wandering, a stamp map leading us on a playful treasure hunt to find the best spots of the village. We stop for lunch in the village and try some traditional Korean food - freshly rolled savoury gimbap and spicy-sweet tteokbokki. There is so much colour in Busan and Gamcheon showcases this perfectly. Continue on your culture tour with a stop at Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, sitting atop a cliff overlooking the sea. Stone lanterns line the path downward, the sound of gentle chanting blending with crashing waves. Like most cities in South Korea, Busan takes food very seriously and of course here it is tied deeply to the water. Fresh seafood makes up most of the menu in any restaurant, served fresh daily. As evening settles in, head toward Gwangalli Beach. Across the bay, drone displays take place, setting the sky alight in fun designs, a unique way to end a day exploring Busan. Busan is the perfect excuse to combine a city trip with a coastal getaway. Read more about what to do in Busan here.
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Fortress walls and beautiful libraries in Suwon, South Korea
Just 30 kilometers south of Seoul lies a city many travelers overlook, and that may be its greatest advantage. Suwon offers a quieter walk through history without having to travel too far from Seoul. The heart of Suwon is Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO-listed fortification built in the late 18th century during the Joseon Dynasty. Hwaseong feels remarkably intact, its watchtowers, gates, and pavilions still standing proudly above the modern streets below. We climb up the steps and onto the wall, which stretches nearly 6km, and we walk as we take in the views of the city below. Inside the fortress complex lies Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, once a temporary royal residence. Its wooden halls and open courtyards feel intimate compared to Seoul’s grand palaces, with zero crowds in sight and we walk peacefully around the grounds, snapping photos as we go. Suwon is famous across South Korea for one dish in particular: galbi. Thick cuts of marinated beef ribs sizzle over charcoal grills, caramelizing at the edges before being wrapped in lettuce with garlic. As you wonder the city, you can smell the delicacy wafting from the restaurants. Entire streets near the fortress are dedicated to the dish. There is of course plenty of coffee shops and ice cream stops near the fortress, as well as a few souvenir shops and photobooths. In the evening we find ourselves in another unique spot, the Starfield Library. Situated inside a seemingly ordinary shopping centre, the library spans out across 4 floors and it’s the perfect spot for grabbing a coffee and immersing yourself in the cosy atmosphere. It’s of course a very popular instagrammable spot so we had fun snapping lots of photos as we explored the different levels. Suwon is the ideal escape if you’re looking to escape the crowds of Seoul.
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Which place would you choose to visit if you were skipping Seoul?
